Jakob Shirt with stand collar

I finally managed to take a photograph of mum trying on the Liberty JJ Blouse I made her. Here’s the snapshot. I am so glad she gave her nod of approval! The fit is definitely better on her than on me.

For dear hubby’s shirt, I used the tried and tested burdastyle’s Jakob sewing pattern once again and here’s the mister modeling his brand new shirt for me. They said every girl would marry someone like her dad. Well, my husband and dad wear the same size shirts!

At my husband’s request, I made his version with a stand collar which came out surprisingly well.

I even managed to find matching buttons for the fabric at a vintage button shop in Chinatown.

When he tried the shirt on for the first time, I was pleased with the fit but the sleeves were a little too long and the garment also needed an additional buttonhole. These were quick and easy changes to make. I am very pleased with this shirt and it is so true that practice does make perfect as this is already version 3. All seams including sleeves are finished with french seams in this one which is a great thing with cotton lawn. Dear hubby said after trying on the shirt that he doesn’t mind having a few more cotton lawn shirts in different colors and I took that as a compliment 🙂

Having just completed the shirt using Alexander Henry’s cotton lawn, I couldn’t help comparing the Liberty tana lawn with Alexander Henry’s version. Here’s my verdict:

Post wash: There seemed to be less crinkle on the AH fabric after washing and drying.

Ironing: Both were equally easy to iron and crease.

Sewing: Equally easy.

Color and vibrancy: Liberty colors are way more vibrant compared to the AH collection. Somehow, AH’s cotton lawn is slightly on the dull side in terms of color but I think that makes them rather perfect for men’s shirts.

Skin test: I didn’t perspire the entire time when trying on the Liberty blouse which is unusual for our climate. It feels amazing on the skin. The AH collection feels good but not as good as Liberty when touched.

Drape: I do not feel there is much difference in terms of the drape of both fabrics.

Price difference: Very significant!

Conclusion: Liberty is THE choice for vibrant color/ print as well as top comfort, something to pamper yourself with. AH is great for projects requiring less vibrant prints and definitely a superb quality fabric for its price.

On a separate note, this week’s TSW Challenge theme is “Something floral, something blue”, do check out the creations for this week or join us for this challenge. The garment I sewed is scheduled for showcase Friday PST and as usual I’ll be doing a Behind The Seams on this blog.

It’s the middle of the week. I hope you have had a great week so far. I am looking forward to more sewing and more completed projects! Are you looking forward to Spring yet?

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8 thoughts on “Jakob Shirt with stand collar

  1. These both look great! They’re breezy but classy. Also, thanks for the AH v. LL comparison. I consider them so often, but as they’re only for sale online in my neck of the woods, it’s hard to make an informed choice 😉

    I’m starting my first dress ever with a shirt collar, and I’m pretty nervous – any tips?

  2. Nice job on the shirts. I am curious how you do french seams on a curve. I have been perplexing over this for a month. And even after asking my sewing group last night I still don’t know how to get them to lay flat. My project is a simple robe with the sleeves cut into the bodice (pattern Simplicity 2739). It’s at the under arm curve where I can’t get my french seams to lay flat. Any tips? Thanks!

  3. Thanks Flynn! With shirt collars, I feel that it’s important to choose the right interfacing for the fabric. Usually I’d pick a medium weight one cos I want the collar to stand but not be too stiff at the same time. I also prefer to cut away the seam allowance of the interfacing piece before ironing on the wrong side of the fabric as I hate the thickness and bulk it could otherwise create. Ensure the notches of the pattern meet is also vital. Good luck and I would love to see your first dress! Take your time and enjoy the experience!

  4. Thanks Jane! I find that french seams for the sleeves work best with really light weight fabrics such as voile or cotton lawn. To me, the most important thing is ironing and clipping. After you have sewed the wrong sides together, clip and notch curves before trimming the allowance and ironing them flat. That way the fabric rests better when you stitch the right sides together.

    I also took a look at the pattern you mentioned. Those are raglan sleeves right? If so, they are actually easier to french seam them because you can stitch the back and back of sleeves wrong sides together first and then the front and front of sleeves and follow through your stitches with the side seams. Then you clip and iron before stitching the right sides together. I hope my explanation makes sense to you.

  5. The top does look perfectly made for your Mom. She is very sweet. You husbands’ shirt is great. I have to learn how to make button holes because

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