After sewing hubby a 70s Melton wool coat (below) in 2012, I wanted to sew him something different last year for our 15th wedding anniversary.
The plan was to sew Thread Theory’s Jedediah pants and Newcastle Cardigan. But, I took longer than expected sourcing for suitable fabrics. By November, Thread Theory was looking for pattern testers for their Goldstream Peacoat and I signed up! The timing couldn’t be better as hubby just shared with me that his company would be sending him back to school for 3 weeks in the UK in November 2014! A coat would be an absolutely appropriate present!
Thread Theory’s Goldstream Peacoat (the pdf version is now available for purchase!) comes in two variations. Classic and Casual. I really loved the Classic design with the epaulets and sleeve tabs but decided to make the minimalist Casual version so that it would look distinctive from the 70s coat I made hubby the year before. I sewed the version with front darts for better shaping.
Hubby’s back to school version is made with an Italian wool melton coating in a cosy heathered major brown color from Gorgeous Fabrics which I bought during a sale. It’s truly a gorgeous fabric and hubby said he can’t wait to wear it so much so that he wanted to wear it in his office. I told him he’s nuts. And he is. See, he’s happily modeling it for me in our hot 30 degrees Celsius living room.
Like the 70s Melton wool coat, I chose to line this coat with a light weight plaid wool fabric. Somehow I really love wool on wool and it definitely provides extra warmth. My original plan was to sew the side and top pockets. The clever design comes with two pocket layers. As you can see, I prepared all 4 pocket pieces.
However, my sewing machine wasn’t agreeable with the thickness and I ended up using the side faced pocket for the top pocket. I just preferred to have patch pockets that are faced:)
I also sewed a hood which I adored. Love the plaid fabric contrast here too. But, after trying on the coat, hubby just love it the way it was, without hood. So, now I have an extra woolen hood lying around my sewing room.
I used medium weight iron-on interfacing for the collar, but for the front coat pieces and the front facings, I chose to hand baste hair canvas onto them. The hair canvas was pre-treated. I washed and soaked them in water before line drying them. While they were still slightly damp, I steamed iron the hair canvas till completely dry.
The hair canvas came with printed green lines which I used as a guide for my hand basting onto the wool pieces. This was the most time-consuming part of sewing this garment but after completing this coat, I felt that it’s a necessity. I love the support it gives the coating. To reduce bulk at the seams. I trimmed the seam allowances off the hair canvas. To complete the look, I also used shoulder pads as recommended by the pattern. The length of this coat is just perfect.
When the lining was complete, I used a method I have learnt while sewing the kids’ coats a couple of years ago to attach the sleeve to the sleeve lining. I love that this method hides all the stitches and lends a lovely finish to the sleeves.
This step is done after attaching the coat and lining/facing pieces together but before slip stitching the hem by hand. Through the armholes, pull the sleeves out to the wrong side for both the shell and lining. Matching up the seam in the sleeve of your lining with the seam of your coat. Pin the sleeves together at the end right sides together and sew all the way around to attach the sleeves together. Now do the same with your other sleeve. Through the bottom opening, pull the sleeves out and turn the coat over to the right side. Now, you can slip stitch the hem.